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How to Clear Up a Green Pool(Order Pool and Spa Parts)

Some homeowners are under the impression that all they have to do is say a few magic words like "Abracadabra," snap their fingers, and their pool will be crystal clear and ready to use instantaneously. Unfortunately, this is not the case. A pool does require some work and a little diligence. Most pool owners encounter a green pool at some point in time. Whether it be just after opening the pool or during the heat of summer, there are many variables that contribute to turning a pool green or "swampy". Use the information below as a basic guideline to aid you in clearing up your pool.

If there is any large debris on the pool floor, remove it with a large leaf net, not a hand skimmer. Initially, this will stir up the water, and may make your pool look much worse temporarily. The stirred up debris will settle within a few hours. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO VACUUM THE POOL IF YOU CANNOT SEE THE BOTTOM OR IF YOU HAVE A LOT OF DEBRIS ON THE BOTTOM. YOU MAY CLOG YOUR SKIMMER, FILTER OR UNDERGROUND PIPES !

Adjust the PH and Alkalinity levels of the water using PH Plus, PH Minus, and Alkalinity Plus. These levels must be within the proper ranges (a PH level of 7.2-8.0 and alkalinty level of 80-120) or the water will never clear.

Shock the pool, multiple times daily, if possible. This means super chlorinating the water to kill off any bacteria and algae. If your pool is very dirty, it may need MANY gallons of liquid chlorine (shock) over several days before the water begins to clear. Start off by adding 3 or 4 gallons, and if you see no results overnight, add 3 or 4 more gallons the next day. Continue this process until you notice the water changing color to either a cloudy white, light green, or clear color. YOU CANNOT OVER SHOCK A POOL !!! The more you add, the quicker it will clear !!!

Run your filter 24 hours a day and backwash 3 or 4 times a day for quickest results. Green or cloudy water will quickly clog a filter. Therefore, you may have to backwash your filter multiple times a day until the pool clears. THIS IS NORMAL !!! You cannot over backwash a pool filter either. The more you run your pool, and the more you backwash the filter, the faster the pool will clear up. If you have a D.E. filter, remember to add new D.E. to the skimmer closest to your filter after each backwashing. A D.E. filter requires more attention than a sand filter, but the D.E. filter will clear a green pool approximately 50% faster than a sand filter.

If you follow these instructions and your pool does not clear up within 4 or 5 days, your filter may not be functioning properly. Also, you want to avoid spending a lot of money on chemicals that will be futily wasted because the pool will never clear up if the filter is not working properly. If this is the case with your pool, have the filter system checked out by a professional.

If you have a sand filter, it may mean having the sand changed. It should be changed approximately every three to four years. So, keep that in mind. If you have a D.E. filter, you may need an acid washing of the filter. This is where all the grids and fingers of the filter are cleaned with muriatic acid and removing all of the D.E. that is caked inside the filter system.

Once the water does clear up, you will most probably see some debris on the pool floor in the form of dead leaves, algae, etc. If there is only a small amount of debris present, you may want to vacuum it up using your own pool vacuum system. If there is a lot of debris on the pool floor, you should have the pool professionally powervacuumed. This will save a lot of wear and tear to your filter system, as well as assuring that no debris gets clogged in your pool pipes.

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Swimming Pool Chemistry(Order Pool and Spa Parts)

The Purpose of Chlorine

Disinfection is the most important factor in maintaining a pool which is to remain safe and healthy for the entire pool season. Chlorine is the most widely applied disinfecting agent for swimming pool water.

The most common form of chlorine for swimming pool consumption is calcium hypochlorite containing 70% available chlorine. This solid, white material is available in either a powder, or tablet form. Both have excellent stability under all normal storage conditions. In use, this material dissolves quickly, and releases free available chlorine which is needed to kill bacteria.

There are a number of factors which affect the rate at which chlorine is consumed in the swimming pool. Chlorine dissipates more rapidly in warm water than in cold water. The presence of organic matter such as perspiration and bacteria carried in bather’s skin all affect the rate at which chlorine is consumed as well as affects the amount of chlorine needed to maintain an adequate chlorine residual. For these reasons, it will be necessary to add more chlorine on sunny hot days and when there are more people using the pool.

Calcium hypochlorite should be added to the water by means of a chemical feeder or a dispensing basket. If tablets are used, remember that it may bleach a spot on the floor of the pool if permitted to rest there. Extreme caution should be taken to make sure that they are beyond the reach of children. Don't ever mix chlorine with any other chemicals !!! Always use a clean dry measuring device when handling this material since any contamination may result in a chemical reaction which may cause a fire.

Chlorine should be added to the pool approximately 15 minutes prior to swimming. Tests for the presence of a chlorine residual. Adjustments should be made frequently and additions of chlorine made as needed.

ALGAE… TO KILL AND HOW TO KILL, THAT IS THE QUESTION ...

In your pool it will manifest itself in the form of slime on the sides and floor of the pool, and a general cloudiness in the body of the water accompanied by a sudden increase in the pH. In an advanced stage of growth, it will take on a green color and if allowed to progress further, a brownish color with an obnoxious fish type odor. Intense sunlight is very conducive to algae growth due to higher than normal water temperatures and an increased rapid loss of residual chlorine.

As a rule of thumb, algae growth will not develop where a proper chlorine residual is maintained. However, it is most difficult to maintain a proper chlorine residual in situations when intense sunlight and higher water temperatures increase the consumption of chlorine. Therefore, making it more expensive to control the growth of algae. When algae build up gains an advantage on your pool, a "shock" treatment(s) is often necessary to remove the growth. This consists of applying from five to ten times the normal amount of chlorine, when the pool is not in use. Allow the chlorine residual to settle back to normal before resumption of swimming.

Another factor in favor of algaecides, is that they require much higher concentrations of available chlorine than do bacteria in order to kill them. There are many types of algaecides, the most popular of which are the quaternary ammonium compounds and copper based products. Most quaternary ammonium compounds are in liquid form. Since they tend to decompose rapidly, frequent additions are required in order to maintain the proper active residual. On the other hand, copper based products are predominantly in a granular form and require only a single application of a proper dosage with occasional additions to compensate for dilution due to addition of new water.

While chlorine may be considered an effective algaecide, in order for it to be effective, its presence must be felt. Conditions under which algae grows most rapidly is precisely the same when it is most difficult to maintain an adequate chlorine residual. Therefore, it has become common practice to employ algaecides to control the growth of algae leaving the chlorine free to act on bacteria.

pH, ITS IMPORTANCE AND CONTROL

PH is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. To help us express numerically how acidic or alkaline, we use the pH scale.

The PH scale runs from 0 to 14. A PH reading between 0 and 7 is on the acidic side. A PH of 7 is neutral, and pH readings between 7 and 14 is alkaline. The PH of swimming pool water should be controlled within the range of 7.2 to 7.8.

Water that is decidedly acidic or alkaline is uncomfortable to swim in. Irritation to eyes, skin, and bleaching of hair and swim suits is usually caused by improper PH. Human beings feel comfortable in a relatively narrow PH zone (7.2 to 7.8) and the effectiveness of chlorine is greatest in this same range.

Pool water which is acidic, (PH below 7) is corrosive to filters, pipes, and other metal fixtures. It will result in excessive chlorine consumption. An overly alkaline water (PH above7) tends to form unsightly white-ish deposits called "scale," which adhere to pool fixtures. In this alkaline range, the effectiveness of chlorine is greatly reduced.

CONTROL OF pH

Adjusting the PH of water is a simple matter. To raise a PH which is below 7.2, soda ash or PH positive powder (PH Plus) or briquettes must be added. To reduce a PH which is above 7.8, muriatic acid or PH negative powder must be added.

HARD WATER

Swimming pool water is considered hard when it contains dissolved solids. Calcium, magnesium, iron, and manganese are the chemicals of primary concern. These minerals enter the pool in the water supply, and/or may be picked up from piping and pool accessories used in the pool system. The presence of calcium and magnesium contribute to white cloudy water,while iron and manganese usually cause discolored water.

Most hard water conditions can be alleviated through the addition of water softening agents. Cloudy water conditions caused by calcium and magnesium are usually the result of too high a PH and may be easily corrected by adjusting the PH to between 7.2 and 7.8.

Well water or ground water usually contain high percentages of iron and manganese. Pool waters which contain these minerals may not initially appear to have any color, but upon adding chlorine, they may be oxidized and will appear as a yellow to brownish color. Colored water may be eliminated by the addition of water softening agents.

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How to properly close (winterize) your pool(Order Pool and Spa Parts)

Inground Pool Closing (Winterizing)

Do a quick physical check of all your winterizing supplies. This should include the cover, the water tubes, the plugs for the skimmers (gizzmos), return jets, and your winterizing chemicals. You will also need an air compressor or a powerful shop vac for proper winterization. If you are using the green Gizzmos to plug your skimmers, check them out and make sure that they are not cracked. Using a cracked Gizzmo can lead to having water seep into the pipe lines of the pool and lead to having it freeze.

Backwash the filter very well to clean it out. This will clean the majority of the filter, but some DE particles will remain in the filter. Drain DE filter tanks and leave backwash valve open. On sand filters, unplug the filter drain plug and leave off. Put drain plug with other removed items in the pump basket. Make sure multiport valve has no water in it. Blow it out with a compressor or shop vac. Although it is not recommended to "Acid Wash" DE filters at the time of the pool closing, an "Acid Wash" should be done in the Spring/Summer so that you can immediately run pool water through the system. It is not good to use muriatic acid on a DE filter and then just rinse it off and immediately putting it away for the winter. The acid may degrade the filter parts over the winter.

Disconnect your pump and filter. Make sure the pump is totally drained out. Remove any drain plugs from the pump. It is a good idea to store any small plugs or parts in the pump basket. This way you will be able to find them easily come Springtime. If there is a heater, drain it and make sure there is no sitting water inside. Blow it out with a compressor or shop vac. Drain heater totally and remove all drain plugs (if any). Also put drain plugs in the pump basket for safe keeping. We do not recommend removing the heater tray. You can remove it if you want, but you may encounter trouble putting it back in come Springtime. It is not necessary to remove on most units.

Unscrew and loosen any quick disconnect fittings or unions at your pump and filter system. Remember, the objective is "no freeze cracks". If the water is all drained out of your pipes and fittings, it cannot freeze and expand and crack.

Remove all return jet fittings, the entire fitting. If you crack a fitting while removing it, you can simply replace it next year. They are relatively inexpensive. Remove all skimmer baskets. Put fittings and any other items that you remove in one of the skimmer baskets or the pump basket to avoid losing anything.

Blow out all return jet pipes using an air compressor or shop vac. Hook up air compressor or shop vac to the return lines at the filter system. Some people prefer to screw the compressor fitting into the drain plug of the pump. This will give a good seal and allow you to blow out the entire system from that one spot. Keep the air blowing until bubbles start to become visible from the return jets in the pool. Put a plug in the fitting under the water when you see bubbles blowing at full force. This will mean that 99% of the water is out of the pipe. Make sure plug is in tight !!!

Blow out all skimmer (suction side) pipes in a similar fashion. Put a Gizzmo-type screw in plug in the skimmer when bubbles start to become visible. We know that this is sometimes difficult, but proper gizzmo installation is important. Make sure that you put Teflon tape on the gizzmo threads before installing. This insures a tight seal. If you don't want to use Gizzmo plugs and want to use black rubber-type plugs instead, that is sufficient as long as there is something in the skimmer to allow for water expansion when it freezes. Usually a closed plastic empty soda-type bottle will work. Do not just plug the skimmer lines and forget about them. Water can easily freeze in a skimmer and crack the plastic. Also, if you have a slide, an auto vac system or a waterfall, you will have to drain and blow out those pipes as well. We do not recommend putting anti-freeze type products in the pipes. It is unnecessary if the lines are properly blown out. The anti-freeze can cause a mess in the Spring when you go to start your system and it gets sucked into your filter and blown back into the pool. Try to avoid antifreeze.

Blow out main drain line (if any). When you see bubbles coming out of the drain, plug the pipe on your end or close the gate valve. This is as much protection as you can give to a main drain line. By doing this you will cause an "air lock" in the line and no more water should enter the pipe from the pool side. Put duct tape on all exposed pipes to prevent anything from getting into them.

Remove rope and floats from pool and put with the rest of the supplies. Remove dive board and ladders. Put in a safe spot, usually a shed or the garage. Also, put the pump and filter in your shed or garage. You probably are not going to want to move your filter if it is a sand filter. You can leave that outside ! Remember, do not lose dive bolts or ladder bumpers. Put them in the skimmer or pump baskets.

Mix any granular winterizing chemicals in a bucket so they totally dissolve. Dump mixture into the pool. You want to avoid any undissolved granules from settling on the pool floor and staining the liner. This is very important. If you are using any liquid winterizing chemicals, pour them in the pool as well. Test the pool for PH and Total Alkalinity. Adjust to normal levels using PH plus or minus and alkalinity plus. The PH level should be between 7.2 - 7.6 . The Alkalinity level between 100-150 ppm. Make sure one of your winterizer chemicals consists of a shock-type product. You want the chlorine level in the pool to be rather high (over 3.0 for wintertime).

You do not have to drain any water out of the pool provided you have properly blown out and plugged all your underground pipes as outlined above, and you do not have a pool that has decorative ceramic tiles at the water line. This might conflict with others pool industry. Some people are used to their pool being drained down past the skimmer. This is usually done instead of blowing out the pipes and using gizzmos. Realize that the higher the water level is through the winter, the better it is for the pool cover. Pools that are drained down low because of alot of undue stress on the pool cover, and thereby shorten its life. It also exposes the pool liner to the air and acn possibly cause it to prematurely dry out. The use of gizzmos prevents the skimmers from cracking, plugs the pipes and allows the water level to remain high for the cover. This prevents the rain water from causing huge puddle formations on top of the pool cover and possibly causing it to collapse in. We feel the only valid reason to drain the water down in a pool is if it has tile. The water level must be a few inches below the tile, otherwise, this could cause those tiles to crack. Aside from this situation, we feel that there is no valid reason to lower the water in the pool. Also, you do not have to remove or "lower" the pool light provided that you keep your water at the normal level.

Place the cover on the pool. If there are rips or tears in the cover that are repairable, patch them with either vinyl pool patch (for vinyl covers) or with pool cover patch tape (for lightweight covers). Remember, if your cover has been on life support the past couple of years, give it a proper burial and invest in a new one. If there are sharp points that extend into the pool, like step units or "ELS", then it is a good idea to put rags or cardboard between the cover and the points on the pool which extend out. Do this right or the cover may rip on those stress points.

If you use water tubes, lay out the water tubes, placing them through loops on cover. Fill tubes with water about 3/4 full and tightly seal all tubes. Do not overfill the tubes. When they freeze, you do not want them to expand and split. Tubes should ideally be touching each other end to end. However spacing them one (1) foot apart is acceptable. If you find that tubes are leaking, do not fill them. Replace them with new ones. It is not a good idea to patch the old tubes. Allow enough slack in the tube for water expansion!

Above Ground Pool Closing (Winterizing)

Locate all your winterizing supplies. This should include a cover, air pillow, plugs for the skimmers ( gizzmos or rubber plugs ), winter plate ( if used ) and your winterizing chemicals. You need these items for proper winterization. If you are using the green Gizzmos to plug your skimmers, check them out and make sure that they are not cracked.

Backwash the filter very well to clean it out. Drain DE filter tanks and leave backwash valve open. On sand filters, unplug the filter drain plug and leave off. Put drain plug with other removed items in the pump basket. Make sure multiport valve ( if any ) has no water in it. Blow it out with a compressor or shop vac. Please note that it is not recommended to "acid wash" DE filters at the time of the pool closing. It is best to do in the Springtime so that you can immediately run pool water through the system. It is not good to use muriatic acid on a DE filter and then just rinse it off and put it away. The acid may degrade the filter parts over the winter.

Plug return pipes and skimmer and remove all hoses.

Disconnect your pump and filter. Make sure that pump is totally drained out of any water. Turn pump upside down once to make sure. Remove any drain plugs from the pump. It is a good idea to store any small plugs or parts in the pump basket. This way you will be able to find them easily in the Spring. Store in a shed or garage.

Some people like to remove the skimmer box and install a winter plate with gaskets. If you do this, make sure it does not leak. Most people simply plug the skimmer hole with a black rubber plug or a gizzmo. It is easier. You can let the water in the pool go down to the bottom of the skimmer, then you do not have to plug the hole at all. This method is also acceptable, but realize that the pool cover will sit lower in the pool. Therefore you might want to use a cover that is one or two sizes bigger than your pool so that you have the extra material available. Any of these methods are good. It is simply a matter of personal preference.

Blow up and install your air pillow. Air pillows are usually used but are not absolutely necessary. They are a good idea in case the water in the pool freezes, expands, and breaks the pool wall. If no pillow is available, a tire or tube will suffice. Throw them into the pool to take up ice expansion. Tie air pillow at two places and position in center of pool. Tie strings to the pool wall so the pillow does not move during cover installation. If the pillow is leaking, either patch it or get a new one.

Remember, the pillow is there to take up any expansion of the water which may occur due to freezing and possibly causing the above ground pool wall to split. Pillows are not to keep the rain water off of the pool cover. The rain water will always settle around the outside of the pillow and will need to be pumped off occassionally. Remove all deck equipment from pool ( i.e ladders, rails, slides, etc.). Add chemicals. Mix any granular winterizing chemicals in a bucket until they are totally dissolved. Dump mixture into the pool. You want to avoid any undissolved granules from settling on the pool floor and staining the liner. If you are using any liquid winterizing chemicals, pour them in the pool as well. Test the pool for PH and Total Alkalinity. Adjust to normal levels using PH plus or minus and alkalinity plus. PH levels should be between 7.2 - 7.6 and alkalinity between 100-150 ppm. Make sure one of your winterizer chemicals consists of a shock-type product. You want the chlorine level in the pool to be rather high (over 3.0 for wintertime).

Place cover on pool and secure. Make sure that cover cable wire is tight so that cover does not blow off or fall in pool. Make sure the pillow is still in the middle of the pool after cover installation. If not, reset cover and pillow.

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How to properly open your pool(Order Pool and Spa Parts)

Overview of Pool Opening Procedure

A pool properly maintained during the winter months can prevent many headaches and make preparation for a new season of swimming involve a minimal effort.

Pump, hose, or sweep away water, dirt, or debris from the cover and deck. Remove the cover and plugs from all openings.

If the water was in good shape at the end of last season, proper cover removal will ensure that your pool should open relatively clear.

If they were removed at the pool closing, raise the underwater lights from the bottom of the pool and install them in their niches.

Turn on the electric power and start up the support system. Check for leaks and proper operation. If you find any problems, consult your owner's manual or contact a local pool service company. Have the heater professionally serviced before you use it.

Super chlorinate and adjust the PH & Alkalinity levels of the water. Run the pump 24 hours a day at the beginning of the season when it may be difficult to get the pool water balanced. You can reduce the pump operating time once you've got the water in shape. Treat the water with an algaecide. After several hours of operation, test the chlorine level and adjust it as needed. If the chlorine level is high, do not use the pool until it drops to normal levels.

Opening the Pool (General)

The reopening process begins the moment the pool is closed. By keeping an eye on the pool over the winter, the reopening process becomes that much easier. Snow or rain can raise the water level or sink the cover. Since heavy debris can fall in, it is better to remove it immediately than waiting till the spring. Reopening the pool entails reversing the instructions for closing it. The following is a handy checklist:

Supplies- Take the supplies (chemicals) out of storage and replace those that have exceeded the expiration date.

Uncover Pool- Remove the cover, and then clean it. Allow it to dry (to prevent mildew) before folding and storing it for the summer.

Equipment- Reinstall or reassemble the pump, filter, and other removed items.

Deck- Reinstall ladders, diving board, and other deck fittings. If used at closing time, most of the petroleum jelly used to coat exposed metal fittings will have weathered off. Use a dry cloth towel to wipe off the remaining residue.

Plumbing- Remove the plugs and replace return outlet fittings.

Refilling the Pool- Bring the water level up to normal.

Electrical- Restore circuit breakers, switches, and time clock trippers to normal operating positions.

Cleaning- Restart the circulation equipment and clean the pool.

Chemistry- Balance the water chemistry and check the levels frequently during the first few days (until they stabilize).

Run the circulation system 24 hours straight for several days or until the water has cleared completely. Depending on how dirty the pool became over the winter, the filter must be backwashed frequently during this period.

Opening the Pool (Detailed)

Remove the leaves and debris from the pool cover with a leaf net and/or skimmer net. Pump off any excess rain water with a submersible pump. If an above ground pool, the excess water may be siphoned off instead. Remove cover. Try to minimize the amount of water and/or debris that gets into the pool water. You will be adding shock to the water and filtering it soon, so don't fret if some dirty water makes its way into pool.

Lay out pool cover and sweep or brush off any remaining debris. If you do not store your cover indoors, then you do not have to be meticulous about getting the cover particularly spotless. If you do keep it in the garage or basement, you may want to clean it to a greater extent. Properly fan-fold cover and store away. Empty the water out of any water tubes you may have. On above ground pools, deflate the air pillow.

Unplug all piping, both in the pool and at the filter system area. Re-attach any deck equipment you have such as ladders, rails, diving boards, etc. Make sure to reconnect any grounding wires or straps that may have been attached to the metal parts last year. Lubricate all bolts on the dive board, ladders and/or rails. This will prevent them from rusting over the summer. Remember, you are probably the one who will be closing the pool, so you want the bolts to come off easy at closing time. Re-install the skimmer baskets and any return jet eyeball fittings. If an above ground pool, you may have to re-attach the actual skimmer and return fittings onto the pool. If an above ground pool, also hookup any hoses from the skimmer and return jets to the pump and filter.

Hook up pump, filter and any other additional equipment you might have like booster pumps, spa equipment, waterfall circulation pumps, heaters, etc. Turn on the power to the pool system. You may have to turn on the circuit breaker from the house. Start and check system. Check for leaks or drips. Make sure any grounding straps or wires are properly connected to the pump and any other components that need them. Make sure pump primes properly and check for proper flow. Backwash the filter thoroughly. Add new DE if you have a DE filter. If some pieces of equipment do not appear to be operating properly, and you cannot repair the problem yourself, contact a local pool professional for assistance.

Shock the pool with any chlorine shock product. This is available in liquid or granular form. You want to add enough to raise the chlorine level of the pool to at least 3.0 ppm. This will be a darker yellow color in most liquid test kits. If you use granular shock, do not throw it directly into the pool. You could bleach and stain the liner. It is best to mix the granular shock chlorine in a bucket and then add that mixture into the skimmer while the system is running. If your pool water is relatively clear, accurately test your water for chlorine, PH and Alkalinity levels. Adjust these chemicals to the proper levels. Add a high quality algaecide to the water. Let pool run for at least 24 hours. Vacuum any debris out of the bottom. Retest water. Do not go into pool until water is crystal clear and chlorine level is under 2.0 ppm. This is a medium yellow color on most test kits.

Pool Opening - The Soap Opera

Sometimes things don't go so smoothly after you open your pool. Here are some common problems and solutions for them:

Obvious drips coming from filter tank, pump or visible pipes...

Try tightening the fittings. If you cannot get leaks to stop, contact a local pool professional.

Sand in pool under or near the return jets...

It could be the pool has an underground pipe leak or it could mean that something in the sand filter is cracked. If you are loosing water as well, we suggest contacting a local pool professional. If you are not losing water, then take apart the sand filter and look for a cracked part.

DE in pool under or near the return jets...

This means there is something in the DE filter that is ripped or cracked. Take the filter apart and look for cracked part or ripped element.

DE filter isn't putting out enough water pressure and/or isn't effectively filtering the pool...

You should backwash the filter immediately. Add new DE. If problem persists, filter may be in need of an "acid wash". If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.

Sand filter isn't putting out enough water pressure and/or isn't effectively filtering the pool...

You should backwash the filter immediately. If problem persists, filter may be in need of a sand change. If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.

You notice many air bubbles mixing with the water coming out of the return jets...

Probably means that there is a suction line leak, usually under or by the skimmers. You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this.

You notice settled or wet dirt. You see bricks or patio blocks around the skimmers or return jets settling or sinking into the ground...

Probably means an underground pipe leak at that point. You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this.

Pump makes a loud squealing noise, it heats up or is not running to its full capability...

This indicates that the pump is in need of professional service. Either remove it and bring it to a pool store or pump shop for repair, or simply replace the pump.

You notice that your pool is losing water...

If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the skimmer and stops, this usually means that it is a suction line leak. Most likely directly under the skimmer. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this.

If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the skimmer and stops, this usually means that it is a suction line leak. Most likely directly under the skimmer. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this.

If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the return jets and then stops, this usually means that it is a return line leak. Most likely directly by the wall jet return fitting, but it could be anywhere in the return line. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this.

If the pool water level goes down to the top, middle or bottom of the light unit, this usually means that the light is leaking. This is usually the fitting in the light niche where the metal or plastic conduit pipe is attached to the metal niche. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this.

If the water level goes down to any other level on the side walls and then stops, this usually means that the leak is in the liner on the pool side wall or possibly in the step unit gasket. Inspect the pool visually around the water level and check to see if you can see a hole. Check the area where the ladder comes in contact with the liner. This is a very common leak point . If you cannot clearly see a leak hole, we suggest contacting a local pool professional to locate & repair the leak.

If the water level goes down past they side walls, then it usually means that the leak is in the pool floor. You do not want all the water to drain out of the pool. It is bad for the liner and very bad for the pool walls. You do not want the pool to fall in. If you see that you are quickly losing all the water in your pool, put a hose in the pool, start to refill it and contact a local pool professional to locate & patch the hole.

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The basics of a pool filter(Order Pool and Spa Parts)

Swimming pools are constantly at risk of contamination by a variety of sources. Filtration is the process of killing and removing bacteria from your swimming pool. Water clarity is not only important for appearance, but also for hygiene and safety. Filters are universal in all pool systems and they are linked to the circulation system along with the motors and pumps. As water pumps through the circulation system of a pool, impurities are strained by a filter.

Below is a list of terms and their explanations relating to the three types of filters (sand, diatamaceous earth, and cartridge) and the intricacies involved in the filtration process.

1- Anode- A component usually made of zinc or magnesium. It prevents electrolysis or galvanic action in steel filters.

2- Backwashing- The process of cleaning the filter and its elements by reversing the flow of water through the filter, and thereby flushing any accumulated debris out of the filter.

3- Bridging- A phenomenon in DE filters where the filter medium builds up between filter elements and limits flow.

4- Cartridge filter- A filter that uses replaceable paper or fabric-like cartridges as a means of filtration.

5- Diatomaceous Earth (DE)- A powder made of tiny plankton called diatoms. It serves as a filtration medium when it forms a cake like substance on the filter element.

6- DE filter- A filter that uses diatomaceous earth as the filtration medium.

7- Filter area- The filtering surface area through which water flows in the filter housing. It is usually measured in square feet.

8- Filter cycle- The operating time between cleaning and backwash routines.

9- Filter medium- The material used to filter debris from the water. Usually sand, a cartridge or diatomaceous earth.

10- Influent line- The plumbing line that leads from the pool to the filter equipment. It is also known as the suction line.

11- Multi-port valve- A valve that allows a multi-directional control of the flow of water through a filter. It combines the function of two or more single valves.

12- Pressure differential- The difference in pressure between the influent and effluent lines of a filter.

13- Pressure filter- The most common type of filter. The water is forced through the filter by a pump mounted on the influent side of the filter.

14- Pressure gauge- An instrument that measures the water pressure in influent and effluent lines. A prominent increase or decrease in water pressure could indicate either a need to cleaning, backwash, or a possible plugged line.

15- Sand filter- A filter that uses graded layers of sand as the filtration medium.

16- Septum- The part of the filter element or grid on which the filter medium is deposited or caked.

17- Turnover rate- The time required to circulate a volume of water equal to the capacity of a given pool.

18- Vacuum filter- A filter through which water is pulled by a pump positioned on the effluent side of the filter. Most vacuum filters use DE as the medium.

19- Effluent line - The plumbing line leading from the filter equipment to the pool or spa.

Filter Types: There are three basic types of filters: Diatomaceous Earth (DE), sand, and cartridge.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Filters

This filter consists of a tank with a series of fabric covered grids, also called filter elements. The fabric is coated with a substance called DE, or diatomaceous earth. DE is a fine white powder found in large deposits in the ground. They act like filters by allowing water to filter through while leaving the microscopic impurities behind.

A filter must be properly sized to a pools circulation system. This size is determined by square footage of surface area of the filter media, which equals to the total square footage of the grids. A typical filter has eight grids that total anywhere from 24 to 72 square feet. The grids are placed into tanks that are 2 to 5 feet high and about 2 feet in diameter. Without the filter grids, DE would turn into a caked mass. When wet, this mass would make it impossible for water to flow through.

There are two basic types of DE filters: the vertical grid and the spin type.

Vertical Grid Filters

The grids in this type of filter are assembled vertically on the manifold. A holding wheel secures the grids to the manifold and a retaining rod screws into the base of the tank to secure assembly. Water enters the tank at the bottom and flows up and around the outside of the grids. It then flows down the stem of each grid, into the hollow manifold, and out of the filter.

Spin Filters

The spin filter is now obsolete, but still can occassionally be found on older pool systems. The grids are wheel shaped and lined up horizontally. They operate in a similar manner to the vertical grid filter, but in order to clean them, a crank is turned to spin the grids. Truthfully, it is not very effective and that is why it is now obsolete.

Sand Filters

Sand filters are anywhere from 2 to 4 feet in diameter. Older models generally are housed in metal tanks. The sand in the filter strains out impurities as the water pushes its way through the system. The water enters the top or side of the filter through a multiport or piston backwash valve and sprays over the sand. The sharp edges of the grains of sand catch any impurities. The water is pushed through the laterals and bottom manifold where it is then directed out of the filter. The individual drains of the drain manifold are called laterals. A drain pipe is located in the bottom of the tank for emptying out the water when necessary.

Cartridge Filters

The operation of a cartridge filter is similar to a DE filter with the obvious exception of no DE. Water flows into the tank which houses one or more cylindrical cartridges of fine, pleated mesh material. The tight mesh of the fabric strains out any impurities. Unlike the backwashing method used by DE and sand filters, when it is time to clean the cartridges, they simply are removed and then washed and rinsed.

Makes and Models:

Selecting a good filtration system is the key to healthy, clean, and sparkling water. Whether you're replacing an old filter or installing a filter on a newly built pool, you'll need to match the filter to the pump and the size of the pool. To properly size and select the filter for your pool, you must first calculate the pool's volume and capacity. Next, compute the pools flow rate and the filter flow rate. Once you've done all that, you'll be ready to select the right filter for the system in question.

Sizing and Selection Techniques :

Calculate The Volume

The first step in finding the correct filter model is to figure out how much water has to be filtered. Here are some simple formulas and techniques to use when calculating the volume of a swimming pool.

For a rectangular pool, simply multiply the length by the width by the average depth.

For a circular pool, multiply the radius by 3.14 (pi) by the average depth.

Oval pools are actually rectangles with semicircles on the ends. These are not true ovals and require either combining the formulas for circular and rectangular pools, or using the grid technique. Make a scale drawing of the pool on a piece of square-grid graph paper. Each square represents one square foot or any standard unit. Then simply count up the number of squares, not missing those partially filled squares making complete ones, and that will give you a close estimate of the pool's area in square feet. Multiply the area by the approximate average depth of the pool gives you, the volume in cubic feet.

Calculate The Capacity

To calculate the capacity, simply multiply the pool volume by 7.48. We use 7.48 because that is the number of gallons of water contained in a cubic foot of volume. As an example, suppose you have a rectangular pool that is 36 feet long and 18 feet wide, with an average depth of 5 feet. Plug these numbers into the volume equation and multiply: 36 x 18 x 5 = 3,240 cubic feet. Now plug the volume into the capacity equation and multiply: 3,240 x 7.48 = 24,235 gallons. Aren't you glad you paid attention during Math class in high school now.

Calculate The Flow Rate

The flow rate is the volume of water flowing past a given point during a specific period of time. It is measured in gallons per minute (gpm) or gallons per hour (gph). To calculate the flow rate, divide the capacity of the pool by the turnover rate. The turnover rate is the time required to circulate a body of water equal to the capacity of the pool.

The equation to find the flow rate for the 24,235 -gallon pool noted above (no matter what its shape) is: 24,235 / 8 = 3,029 gph. We used 8 because of an 8 hour turnover rate. To calculate the flow rate per minute, divide the flow rate per hour by 60. In this case, 3,029 @ 60 = 50.48. That is the rate at which you want the filter to work.

The calculations for your 24,235-gallon pool show that you require a flow rate of 50.48 gpm to filter the pool's capacity in eight hours. Therefore, your goal is to determine which model of filter will filter 50.48 gallons of water per minute which results in a complete turnover every eight hours in the pool.

Calculate The Filter Flow Rate

To determine the filter flow rate, multiply the filter area by the filter rate. The filter area is the filtering surface area through which water flows in the filter housing, usually measured in square feet. The filter rate is the number of gallons of water that flows through one square foot of effective filter medium per minute during the operation of the circulation system.

A mathematics degree is not required, all you simply have to do is get both figures from the filter manufacturers. In our example, let's say you have a filter area of 4 square feet and a filter rate of 12.8 gpm. If you multiply 4 x 12.8 you have a filter flow rate of 51.2 gpm. This is relatively close to our desired flow rate of 50.48.

Once these numbers are provided by respective manufacturers for various models, you can calculate the filter flow rate to see which particular filter will match your needs.

Deciding On a Type of Filter

Do you have a preference in filters? All have their advantages and disadvantages. You probably already have a good idea of the type of filter you like, or a specific manufacturer. Once you do, you can perform the necessary calculations and select a filter that will do the job.

The mathematical relationships between filter area, filter rate and filter flow rate will remain the same for any type of filter. Never hesitate to contact a manufacturer or dealer to ask their professional advice.

Make Sure To Oversize The Filter

When selecting a filter, keep in mind that as the filter removes debris from the water, the filter medium will become more and more clogged. This means after a while, the filter will require an ever greater flow to clean an equal amount of water. Therefore, select a filter that is larger than indicated by our calculations of flow requirements. This is especially true for commercial pools and for backwashing purposes.

Backwash Valves

This process is used to clean DE and the sand filters. The water is sent backwards through the filter, flushing any debris into a waste line or a sewer line. A backwash valve on the filter reverses the flow of the water. There are two types of backwash valves. They are piston and rotary (a.k.a. multiport).

Piston Valve: Water is directed to the filter in the normal operation. The water is then filtered through the DE or the sand and returned to the pool. When the handle of the piston is raised into the backwash position, the piston disks forces the water into the filter tank through the outlet port. This winds up creating the backward flow of water through the filter and flushing debris and dirt out of the tank and out of the valve inlet port. Once inside the valve again, the waste water gets directed to the waste port. Never change the piston position when operating the pump !! This creates too much pressure inside the pump and motor, which in turn can result in the valve O-rings leaking. The piston type backwash valve usually is located on the side of the filter tank.

Rotary Valve: The rotary backwash valve exclusively to vertical DE filters. The water direction is changed by rotating an internal rotor located below the filter tank. A rotor gasket seal or O-ring prevents the water from leaking. A retainer ring holds the valve body to the underside of the tank with bolts that pass through the bottom of the tank. In order to backwash, you need to rotate the rotor 90 degrees. The water enters through the middle and up the inside of the grids. The DE and dirt is washed off the grids as the water flows from inside the grids to the outside. The water is then flushed back through the rotor and directed to the opening marked "backwash." Do not rotate the rotor while the pump is running for leaks may occur !!

Multiport Valve: The multiport backwash valve is used on sand filters and looks like a rotary valve when taken apart. Occassionally mounted on the side, but usually it is found mounted on top of the filter tank, this valve offers multiple choices for water flow direction. After the pump backwashes, clean water rinses out the pipes before returning to normal circulation. This prevents debris from returning to the pool.

Backwash Hoses

If the backwash discharge port is not plumbed directly into a drain or sewer line, a hose has to be attached to guide the dirty water to an appropriate place. A normal hose usually is 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter and made out of inexpensive, collapsable plastic. Backwash hoses are available in various lengths ranging upwards of 200 feet. A pool vacuum hose can be turned into a backwash hose by using a hose clamp.

Pressure Gauges and Air Relief Valves

Most filters are fitted with a pressure gauge, usually mounted on top of the filter. Sometimes the gauge is mounted on the multiport valve. These gauges read 0 to 60 psi and are useful in several ways. A good way to know if your filter is in need of a cleaning would be if you start to see the pressure going beyond 10 pounds over the normal operating range (12-20 psi).

A pressure gauge spots potential operating problems in the system. If the pressure is lower than normal, it could indicate an obstruction in the water that is coming into the filter. When the pressure reads high, then the filter is dirty, which means either a sand change, cartridge needs to be cleaned, an acid wash is required, or there is some obstruction in the flow of water after the filter. When the pressure fluctuates while the pump is operating, the pool water level might be to low or possibly an obstruction at the skimmer. This shows just how important a pressure gauge can be.

Sight Glasses

They are the clear section of the pipe normally installed on the backwash line coming out of the backwash valve. They can be installed anywhere in a line of pipe where you want to monitor the effectiveness of the cleaning process. The sight glass helps to see the dirty water becoming clean and determine the appropriate time to stop backwashing.

Installation of Pool Filter

Installing a pool filter is simple, but it necessitates strict adherence to a few basic rules. Before you start getting your hands dirty, you should always consult your manufacturers' literature before working with any unfamiliar products. Here is a simple checklist of things you should consider before purchasing and/or installing a filter. 1) Where the unit is located, 2) How is it incorporated into the overall circulation system, 3) How it's tied into the pool's electrical circuitry are all very important in determining effective and efficient use of all your resources.

Equipment Pad

The equipment pad should be a level slab of poured concrete, brick, or concrete block. You should avoid installing a new filter on wood at all costs because it can warp or decay and compromise the position of the unit. Three things to remember: First, the filter should always be installed on a level surface to avoid vibration of the unit. Second, the filter should be located as close to the pool as possible. Lastly, the filter should have adequate drainage and allow for plenty of room for service access and maintenance.

Plumbing Issues

The plumbing should be designed with the premise of K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid). Plumbing installation should be with the shortest possible route and the least number of fittings to achieve optimum water flow efficiency. If convenience means installing away from the pool, increasing the pipe size between the filter and the pool will decrease the head resistance and compensate for a longer traveling distance. Inspect the plumbing so you can be prepared with the proper fittings and materials.

Electrical Hookup

Although the filter is not directly connected to the electrical power, the pump motor runs on electricity, which means that the filter must be grounded and bonded by a professional electrician. In addition, the electrical wiring and hookup of the motor must be completed by a professional electrician in accordance with local and national electric codes.

Installation

When the equipment pad is ready, it is imperative to refer to the filter manufacturer's installation manual for specific instructions regarding installation. Once you've finished your homework, step one in the installation process is to place the filter on the pad. Make sure it is secure and level.

Next, connect the circulation plumbing to the filter. Every filter has two basic plumbing connections. They are known as the influent and the effluent lines. The influent line supplies water to the filter. The effluent line provides an outlet for water after it passes through the filter. it would be beneficial to put a gate valve on both the influent and effluent lines. This will permit you to close the lines when it is necessary to service, remove, or replace the filter.

The plumbing lines are then connected directly to the filters' multi-port valve. This is done by either hand-tighteneing any union connections, or by bonding with an adhesive such as a PVC cement. In the case of threaded pipe connections, the application of Teflon tape to the threads before connecting the pipes is strongly recommended.

Next, be sure the O-rings and O-ring groove on all valve fittings are clean and lubricated with a silicon lubricant. Install O-rings in their grooves and tighten with the appropriate union collar. Make sure to use the recommended primer before doping PVC components. Allow an appropriate drying period before pressure testing or operating the equipment.

Lastly, it is time to put the circulation system into full operation. Each types of filter require different start-up procedures. The following are general guidelines to use for your reference. Manufacturers' manuals will give you the specific help you need.

Sand Filters: The water typically passes through a number of layers of sand and gravel that have been carefully placed in the filter tank. The size of the sand particles used as the filter medium is very important to attain maximum efficiency. If the sand granules are too big, filtering efficiency is decreased. If the sand particles are too small, the filter will clog up quickly.

Check the specifications provided by the filter manufacturer, then fill the tank with layers of coarse, medium, and fine gravel followed by the silica sand layer on top as directed. Also, plan to leave a space between the sand bed and the overdrain. This space is known as freeboard, and most manufacturers suggest it should amount to half the depth of the filter bed.

Flocculents are often used to improve the performance of sand filters. Most filter flocculents are alum based preparations that forms a gelatinous layer on top of the sand. As an alternative to flocculents, diatomaceous earth can be used. As a general rule, add one-half cup of DE for each three square feet of filter area after the unit has been filled with sand.

DE Filters: These units filter water by passing it through a layer of diatomaceous earth which coats the grids inside the filter tank. The DE is added as a pre-coat to the grids, and attaches itself on the grid-covering mesh. Common practice calls for adding two ounces of DE per square foot of filter area. There are variations of acceptable quantities of DE depending on manufacturer specifications.

The DE should be mixed with water and fed into the filter as a diluted or "milky" looking mixture. After turning on the circulation system, add the solution to the skimmer at a steady rate as possible to permit an even coating of the filter. DE can also be introduced to the filter by using a pre-coat pot, solution feeder, or erosion feeder that is specifically designed for pre-coating.

Cartridge Filter: Insert the filter cartridge as per its instructions and start up the circulation system. Also, you can use a flocculating agent for cartridge filters if desired. With all types of filters, open the unit's air release valve and turn on the pump. When a steady stream of water shoots out, close the valve. Manufacturers always remind us to open the air release valve when starting the filter because air pressure in a filter can be very dangerous.

Safety First

Safety should always be a primary concern in filter replacement and repair. This is particularly important with units outfitted with pressure-clamp assemblies. Under certain conditions, parts can fly apart due to the tremendous force generated. In some cases, flying parts from a "blown" filter are often the source of causing property damage and/or bodily injuries. Improper application of the clamp assembly may result in a poor seal. The uneven seal might slowly force the tank out of round over time and create serious problems in any future servicing. In an extreme case, it can increase the chance of blowout of the filter. Whenever any repairs are done on a filter or related components, make sure to cut off all the pool's electrical circuits at the source!

Basic Diagnostics and Troubleshooting

A pool filter's water-cleansing function is pretty straightforward. But, small problems can become big servicing nightmares if left festering without dealing with it. When a filtration system goes a wry, the water quality can deteriorate quickly. Poor filtration leads to increased chlorine demand on the pool and can cost you a lot more money in chemicals.

The following outlines many basic filter problems, the root causes, and suggests solutions to these issues. For the most part, these discussions span across all three filter types (diatomaceous earth, sand, and cartridge). Make sure to consult your manufacturers' manuals for specific recommendations and operating guidelines.

When checking an operating filter's performance, make sure the needle of the pressure gauge is not sticking. A gauge that fails to indicate a rise in pressure not only compromises your ability to monitor filter cycles, it can also be quite dangerous. Excessive pressure can lead to the filter body cracking and/or failure of the clamping device on the filter tank.

Warning Sign: Reduced Flow of Water Through the Filter

As dirt accumulates on the filter media, the water flow becomes restricted and pressure within the tank begins to rise. When the pressure rises to the desired level specified by the manufacturer, it's usually time for a routine backwashing of a sand or DE filter, or a simple cleaning of cartridge filter elements.

Operating pressure ranges for filters vary widely. For example, A typical range for high-rate sand filters may be 10 to 15 pounds psi at the beginning of the filter cycle, and upwards to 25 to 30 psi when backwashing is required.

Some filter systems have pressure gauges installed on both the influent and effluent lines. As the media becomes clogged with dirt, the influent pressure will become higher than the effluent reading. When the differential between the two readings reaches a specified level, it is time for backwashing.

Gradual pressure rises are normal during the course of a filter cycle. When the pressure begins to rise more rapidly than normal, it is time to take a close look at the elements of the filtration system.

Warning Sign : Short Cycle Between Backwashes

Short filter cycles are indicative of an excessive flow rate through the filter. Usually, it means that the filter may be undersized or that the pump may be too powerful for the system. Install a properly sized system. In some other instances, a short filter cycle indicates an unusual increase in the burden on the filter media. This can be caused by excessive dirt, debris, body oil, lotions, hair, or algae.

Warning Sign : Inadequate Filtering Action

In a sand filter, channels may have formed in the sand and gravel bed. This may be allowing water to pass through unfiltered. Look for evidence of channeling or tunneling and recharge the filter if necessary. Also, if the unit has not been backwashed consistently, mud balls may have formed on the surface of the sand bed, thereby severely limiting filtering action. In an extreme case, the sand may have calcified and will no longer filter out dirt. Look for evidence of mud balls or calcification. After backwashing if problem persists, remove the old sand and recharge the filter as necessary. Filter sand should normally last approximately four to five years.

In a DE filter, poor filtration often results from solidification of the DE. If you observe hardening of the DE, remove and clean the elements as per the manufacturer's instructions and recharge the filter with fresh DE. If DE is fed to the unit by a feeder, the unit may not be feeding enough or to much DE into the filter. This can lead to inadequate or overcoating of the septa. Backwashing should be performed frequently enough and for adequate time periods in order for the media to be cleaned sufficiently.

It pays to watch out for inadequate or plugged backwash lines that might not be allowing sufficient flow out of the filter during backwashing. If a portion of the backwash discharge is retained in the tank because of inadequate flow, the backwash line will clog over time. To address this problem, check the lines for clogs and clear as necessary.

Last but not least, a specific tip for cartridge filters. Poor filtration without a rise in pressure may indicate torn or worn out cartridges that are simply allowing water to pass through without filtering. Replace these cartridges as needed.

Warning Sign : Low Flow Rates in the System

Getting a low reading on a flowmeter and a high reading on the pressure gauge means something is restricting the flow. Most likely it is a blockage in the piping. In some cases, it is under sizing of the entire piping system. As a general rule, the maximum flow rate through a 1-1/2-inch PVC pipe is 70 gallons per minute. In 2-inch plumbing, it is approximately 110 gpm. A drop in the return flow could mean a clogged pump strainer basket or skimmer basket. So, make sure to clean the baskets. An ounce of prevention can save you a lot of money. If both flow and pressure readings are low, the pump may be undersized. Realistically, you may have a plugged pump impeller or lint trap. Pump or motor trouble is usually directly due to filtration problems.

Warning Sign : Sand or DE Entering the Pool

In cases when sand or DE cause a clouding water effect, check the backwash valve. If it is left in an intermediate position, media can flow back into the pool. If this obvious answer doesn't suffice, the solution to this problem lies inside the tank.

With sand filters, broken laterals are a common culprit here. Replacement is the only solution.

In a DE filter, torn or worn out septa will allow DE to flow into the pool.

Warning Sign : Air Pressure Build-Up

Air present in the filter tank can compromise filtering action. In sand filters, it's a prime suspect in channeling. In DE filters, it may disrupt the filter cake. Air pressure build-up in a filter is dangerous. If can lead to hairline cracks or leaks in plumbing connections on the suction side of the pump. A low water level in the pool is another indicator of air in the system. Air may be entering through the skimmer. It is important to release any air present in the filter tank. The presence of air inhibits good filtration and can increase the danger of the filter tank suddenly cracking by rapidly increasing pressure within the tank. Air is easily released by opening the pressure release valve and allowing it to escape. When a steady stream of water comes out of the valve, you have released all of the trapped air.

D.E. Filters Troubleshooting

When working on a diatomaceous earth filter, here are some finer points to keep in mind to minimize the trials and tribulations involved in tearing down a typical D.E. unit, cleaning its grids, and recharging it in order to keep a pool's water sparkling clean.

Diatomaceous earth filters perform the same water cleaning function as sand and cartridge filters. By this I mean, they do their job with great effectiveness so long as too much dirt and debris haven't built up to clog the system. However at cleaning time, differences among these filter types become readily apparent.

A DE filter needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and recharged at least once a year. Its counterpart, the cartridge filter, only requires a simple hosing off, soaking, or routine replacement of cartridge elements. For the most part, a sand filter requires only periodic backwashing. No matter how much it helps in your overall pool-maintenance, cleaning a DE filter is a messy and unenvyable task, but a necessary evil.

To clean a DE filter, release the pressure from the filter tank. Make sure the pump is off and before taking the unit apart, open the filter's air-release valve. Wait a few moments as air is drawn in and water flows out of the tank. When the hissing stops, you can proceed. Then mark the lid, unscrew the clamp ring, and remove it from the tank. Mark the tank on the top and the bottom with a grease pencil, unscrew and remove the clamp ring. The marks will help you align the two sections when it comes time to reassemble the filter.

Remove the top of the tank and pull out the grids. Using leverage is okay, but be sure not to bend or comprimise the tank in the process. Carefully remove the tank's lid. Pull the grid assembly from the tank, making certain you don'tbreak any of the manifold fittings or cut the grid fabric on any sharp edges. Hose off the grids using a pressure nozzle. Make sure all of the old D.E. is thoroughly cleaned from the grid fabric. Dispose of the spent D.E. accordingly. Inspect the manifold and grids. To check the manifold and grids for suspected damage, carefully remove wing nuts with a pair of pliers. Make sure not to strip the threads. Inspect the grids for any small rips or holes.

Clean the filter tank. Release the tank's bottom drain and let the remaining water run out. Hose as much of the loose D.E. and debris out as possible. A pair of channel locks or pipe wrench can help with sticky bottom drain. Inspect the inside of the band / ring. Use a screwdriver to free the band ring from the tank and inspect it for wear. Clean it thoroughly with water or with soap and water in cases where grease and lubricants were used. Put the band ring back and make sure that it is seated evenly and securely in place. Inspect the 0-ring. Check the ring for wear and replace it if necessary. Put the grid assembly back in place. Return cleaned grids and their assembly to the tank, making certain all grids are properly aligned and that the pipe fittings are securely in place as needed. Place the lid back on the tank. Return the lid to the tank and realign it with the greased pencil marks. Put the ring clamp back on the tank and make sure it is seated properly completely around the tank. Tighten the bolt on the clamp assembly. Use an open-end wrench if necessary, occasionally tapping the band ring to make certain it is seated properly. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation with respect to how tight a fit you need. Recharge the D.E. Restart the pump and keep the air-release valve open until a steady flow of water emerges. Place an appropriate quantity of D.E. in a bucket, then add water until it dissolves. When the mixture is "milky" enough, pour it slowly into skimmer with the pump running. Watch the pressure gauge. After adding the D.E. to the skimmer, mark the pressure reading down on the tank with a grease pencil. At subsequent stops, you will be able to tell at a glance how much the pressure in the tank has increased.

Cartridge Filter Maintenance

Servicing cartridge filters is simple. All there is to do is simply removing the cartridge elements, soaking them, hosing them off and putting them back in place. In fact, your only options with cartridge filters are either cleaning or replacement. Unlike sand or diatomaceous earth filters, cartridge filters cannot be cleaned by backwashing. This difference makes it important to stay on top of your filter maintenance routines with cartridge units.

Because thorough cleaning typically requires overnight soaking, you also need to consider what to do without the equipment in the meantime. Most people leave the system off overnight, and some replace the elements. The choice is of course, yours. As always, consult manufacturer literature for specific maintenance procedures and take care to release air pressure from the system when restarting the circulation system.

First, remove the lid. Do so with the pump turned off and the pressure-release valve open, unscrew or otherwise loosen the clamp fitting and remove the tank's ring-clamp assembly. To remove the lid or the upper half of the tank, apply leverage to the lip of the lid and carefully remove it, making sure not to force the lid out of round. Next, remove the cartridges. To remove the cartridges one by one, unscrew the wing nuts and lift the cartridges out. If you need to pull the entire cartridge/manifold assembly, consult the manufacturer's literature. Typically, this method is used only if you suspect a leaking manifold and are removing the assembly for inspection. After removing all the cartridges, you will need to rinse off the cartridges. Make sure to rinse off the cartridges by using a high-pressure nozzle. Then inspect the cartridges for any visible damage such as large tears or holes that would compromise filtration. If no visible damage exists, the cartridges should return to their original white or light gray color when properly cleaned. Then return the cartridges to their assembly, making sure they are carefully seated on the manifold fittings. Reapply the wing nut or fastening device. If you are returning the entire assembly to the tank, it may be more convenient to assemble the unit outside the tank. Follow manufacturer directions and make sure the manifold is properly connected to internal fittings. Inspect the 0-ring and ringclamp assembly for any signs of wear or at the first sign of deterioration. Clean the ring clamp and lip of the lid if necessary. Replace the lid by firmly applying manual pressure to the seat of the lid. Leaning on the lid may help, but make sure not to warp the tank or the lid as you press down. Carefully replace the clamp ring making sure that it is properly placed. Tighten the assembly to manufacturer specifications. As with all filter systems, before you start the pump, make sure the air-release valve is open and wait for emergence of a stream of water.

Sand Filters Maintenance and Troubleshooting

A sand filter cleans a pool gradually by removing dirt, debris and particulates as water passes through a deep bed of sharp sand. Backwashing is the regular service for high-rate sand filters. Unlike diatomaceous earth or cartridge filters, which must be opened for periodic cleaning and replacement of media, a sand filter can go almost approximately four to five years without needing fresh sand.

The basics of sand filtration are also different from rival filter varieties. A high-rate sand filter cleans water through a process known as depth filtration. This means that dirt penetrates the sand bed and is captured in the tiny spaces between grains of sand. The depth-filtration principle works just fine unless the sand filter is not backwashed often enough. Without backwashing, dirt particles begin to accumulate on the surface of the sand bed and will result in short cycles, channeling, and poor overall filtration. Conversely, if you backwash too often, you will also compromise filtration. When the sand bed is totally clean, some of the smaller particles of dirt will pass through unfiltered. As the bed begins to accumulate dirt, the filter begins to catch those smaller particles. In other words, getting ahead of yourself by cleaning the media too often will prevent a sand filter from doing its job.

How do you know when it's time to backwash?

One obvious clue is cloudy water. When the pool gets murky, a dirty filter is the prime suspect. Another far better clue, however, can be found with the filter's pressure gauge or gauges. If the system has both inlet and outlet pressure gauges, you will note only minor pressure differentials, a few psi, when the filter media is clean. As the sand bed begins to load up with dirt, that differential will begin to become more pronounced. In most high-rate sand filters, it's time to backwash when the pressure differential reaches 18-20 psi.

If the system has an inlet pressure gauge only, you should backwash when the pressure increases by approximately 8-10 psi from initial post-backwash readings. It is ideal here to mark the pressure gauge with a grease pencil right after a good backwashing. Some people feel the necessity to maintain a record of the running pressure on a route sheet as you monitor filter cycles. A filter cycle can be affected by many different factors. These range from heavy bather load and algae, to wind-blown dirt and debris. Closely monitoring your pool, and efficiently backwashing, can save you money in the long run on wear and tear of your equipment.

Routing the Flow

Backwashing is a simple matter of reversing the flow through the filter by diverting the outlet water to waste.

The procedure is very easy to learn. First, turn off the pump to avoid damage to any plumbing or valves. Then, turn the control valve to the backwash position and restart the system. Once the filter has been backwashed for the desired period of time, shut the system down and reset the valves. Don't fire up the system right away as the sand bed needs time to settle back down into place. When you restart the pump, a small burst of cloudy water may enter the pool. This is typically caused by a residue of backwash effluent present in the sand bed as a result of inadequate backwash time. Typically, a flow rate of 15-20 gpm per square foot of filter area, most manufacturers recommend to backwash for 2-3 minutes. As always, it's a good idea to cnsult manufacturer service manuals for specific backwashing procedures.

The Inner Workings of the Sand Filter

A typical sand filter in filtration mode will have a flat surface of the sand bed which indicates proper pump and filter sizing and provides maximum filter efficiency without channeling. As the backwash cycle begins, the sand bed rises evenly in the tank as a result of proper flow rate through the filter. Within 2-3 seconds, the sand bed becomes semi-fluid. At this point, dirt and other solids break free from the media and are being discharged to waste. Within 5-10 seconds, the sand bed is now totally fluid. There is 6-7 inches of "free space" between the top of the sand and the bottom of the diffuser. If the pump and filter are properly sized, the sand will not rise too high in the tank. In the "rinse" mode, the sand bed is beginning to re-settle. The filter has now returned to the normal filtration mode. A critical factor in this simple operation is remembering to shut the pump down before changing the filter's valves from one mode to another. Forgetting to turn off the flow could result in damage to the valve and/or the filter.

DE Filters

Backwashing a DE filter will result in some dirt and some DE being flushed from the filter. The remainder drops off the grids and falls to the bottom of the filter in clumps. The manufacturers say that after backwashing, you'll need to replace that amount. If you add too little, the filter grids will quickly clog with dirt and the pressure will build right back up, even stopping the flow of water completely. If you add too much, you will get the same effect by jamming the tank with DE. Backwashing cannot remove oils from the grids, which get there from body oil, oil in leaves, and suntan lotions.

Backwashing a DE filter is useful when the pool has gotten bombarded with debris due to high winds, dirt or mud, and algae. As you start to vacuum it, you'll quickly learn the filter can't hold any more dirt. To save a lot of time you backwash, add a little fresh DE, and get on with the job. You repeat this process until the big mess is cleaned up, then you break down the filter and clean it properly.

The other time you might backwash is when you're vacuuming a normally dirty pool, but the filter hasn't been cleaned in awhile and is just about full of dirt. You encounter suction problems because the filter is clogged. Backwash, add some fresh DE, finish cleaning the pool, and then do a breakdown and clean the filter.

When the water is going inside the grid and flowing outward, any debris in the water from the pool will clog the inside of the grids rendering them useless. On a new pool startup where a lot of plaster dust or gunite debris might be in the water, don't backwash !!! Instead, open the strainer pot and turn on the pump. Flood the pot with water from a hose and backwash as needed that way. Obviously, never vacuum a pool with the filter on backwash because the dirt and debris you vacuum will flow directly inside the grids.

Here is how to break down and clean a DE filter. The vertical grid tank DE filter type is explained here. This is a common in the field and if you can do these, you can do them all.

1)Turn off the pump and switch off the circuit breaker. 2) Open the tank drain and let the water run out. 3) Remove the lid of the filter. On some filters, it is as easy as removing the clamping ring and applying light pressure under the lid with a screwdriver. 4) Remove the retainer's wing nut and remove the retainer. Now gently remove the grids (elements). Applying a reasonable amount of force on the rather large wing part of the grid won't hurt it, but the resulting torque on the flimsy nipple will snap it right off. Therefore, to remove the grids, wiggle them gently from side to side as you pull them straight up and out. Be prepared to hose out the tank while the grids are still in place or patiently excavate the dirt and DE until you can free the grids. 5)Remove the retaining rod by unscrewing it from the base of the rotary valve. Sometimes it is corroded in place, so have pliers handy to grip the rod and unscrew it. 6) Reach in the tank and remove the manifold from the rim of the rotary valve. 7) Hose out the inside of the tank, the manifold, and the holding wheel. Hose off the grids and scrub them lightly to loosen the grime. 8) Inspect the manifold for chips or cracks. DE and dirt will go through such openings and back into your pool. Cracks can be glued. Particularly inspect the joint between the top and bottom halves of the manifold. These two parts are glued together, tend to separate. Replace the manifold as you took it out. Reinstall the center rod. 9) Carefully inspect the grids before putting them back inside. Look for worn or torn fabric, cracked necks on the nipples, or grids where the plastic frame has collapsed inside the fabric. Replace any severely damaged grids. When you reinstall the grids, notice that inside each hole in the manifold is a small nipple and on the outside of each grid nipple is a small notch. By lining up the nipple and notch as you reinsert each grid, the grids will go back as intended. Now lay the retainer over the tops of the grids and spin it around until it finds its place holding down and separating the grids. Screw on the wing nut and washer that holds down the retainer holding wheel. 10) Get the lid back making sure the 0-ring on the tank is free of gouges and has not stretched. If it is loose, soak it for 15 minutes in ice water and it might shrink back to a good fit. If not, replace it. Apply tile soap as a lubricant to make it slide on easier to the inside of the lid around the edge that will meet the O-ring. Don't use Vaseline or petroleum-based lubricants because these will corrode the O-ring material. 11) Now close the tank drain, turn the backwash valve to normal filtration, and turn on the pump. Let the tank fill with water. Turn off the pump and turn the valve to backwash. The water will drain out, sucking the lid down. 12) Replace the clamping ring, return the valve to normal filtration, and start the pump/motor. Open the air relief valve and purge the air until water spurts out the valve. 13) Never run a DE filter without DE, even for a short time. Dirt will clog the bare grids. Remember, it's not the grids, but the DE that does the actual filtering. DE is added to the system through the skimmer. Do not dump it in all at once. It will form in clumps at the first restricted area, like a plumbing of elbow or the inlet of the filter tank. Sprinkle a little amount at a time, mixing it in the skimmer water with your hand. This will disperse it evenly in water. If the the unit is not assembled correctly, DE will flow back into the pool after passing through the unit, when you start up the unit. If the water has slight milky residue, which reduces with more flow of water then it is normal and there is nothing wrong in it. Most of the pool have skimmers where you can add the DE. But if there is no skimmer, make a mixture of water and DE in a bucket, turn on the pump, and add it to the strainer pot, followed by clear water. This way the DE will coat the gird evenly. Cover the strainer and reprime the pump.

Sand Filters

Sand filters use specific size and quality of sand. If the particle size is big then the filtration of smaller particles is not possible and if the sand size is too small then it will clog the laterals.

Sand filters need regular backwashing. When the tank is full of circulating water the sand is suspended in the tank. The sand is light enough to stay floating in the tank, but heavy enough that it does not flow out with the backwash water. This is why the multiport valve is located on top of sand filters, so as the backwash flows from the bottom toward the top, the dirt flows up and out while the sand stays put. So backwashing is an effective way of cleaning a sand filter. Most rotary valves have the steps printed right on them, and they are very simple.

1) Turn off the pump. Rotate the valve to Backwash. Roll out your backwash hose or make sure the waste drain is open. 2) Turn on the pump and watch the outgoing water through the sight glass. It will appear clean, then dirty, then very dirty, then it will slowly clear. When it is reasonably clear, turn off the pump and rotate the valve to Rinse. 3) Turn the pump back on and run the rinse cycle for about 30 seconds to clear any dirt from the plumbing. Turn off the pump, rotate the valve back to Filter, and restart the pump for normal filtration.

When the filter gauge reads 10 psi more than when the filter is clean, it is usually time to backwash. A better clue is when dirt is returning to the pool or when vacuuming suction is poor. When backwashing, be sure there is enough water in the pool to supply the volume that will end up down the drain. It is usually a good idea to add water to the pool or spa each time you backwash.

Sand under pressure from constant use of pool chemicals over a period of time can lead to calcification and clumping. Passages are created through or around these clumps, but less and less water is actually filtering through the sand and more is passing around it. This is called channeling. To correct or avoid this problem, regular teardown is the solution.

1) Turn off the pump. Disconnect the multiport valve plumbing by backing off the threaded union collars. Some valves are threaded into the body of the tank, others are bolted on. Remove the valve. 2) Some sand filters have a large basket just inside the tank. Remove this and clean it out. The sand is now exposed. Push a garden hose into the tank and flush the sand. As noted previously, it will float and suspend in the water. Bust up the clumps. As the water fills the tank, it will overflow, flushing out dirt and debris. Be careful not to hit the laterals on the bottom of the tank because they are fragile and break easily. 3) When the sand is completely free and suspended in the water, not clumped, turn off the water and replace the basket, multiport valve, and plumbing. Backwash briefly to remove any dirt that was dislodged by this process but not yet flushed out.

This teardown process also allows you to check to see if the regular backwashing has flushed out too much sand. You might need to add some fresh sand. Most sand filters need to be filled about two-thirds with sand and have one-third free space. Backwash after adding any new sand to remove dust and impurities from the new sand.

If channeling is a problem because of hard water or pool chemistry which speeds up calcification of the sand, introduce aluminum sulfate through the skimmer just like you would add DE to help prevent this problem. Use the amounts recommended on the bag.

Every few years you need to replace the sand completely because erosion from years of water passing over each grain makes them round instead of coarse and rough. Smooth sand does not catch and trap dirt as efficiently, and it slowly erodes to a smaller size. This allows it to clog laterals and pass into the pool. To replace sand, or add sand to a new installation:

Open the filter as described previously. Remove the old sand by scooping it out. Fill the bottom third of the tank with water to cushion the impact of the sand on the laterals. Slowly pour the sand into the filter, being careful of the laterals. Fill sand to about two-thirds of the tank. Reassemble the filter parts and backwash to remove dust and impurities from the new sand, then filter as normal.

Cartridge Filters

1) Turn off the pump. Remove the retaining band and lift the filter tank or lid from the base. Remove the cartridge. 2) Light debris can simply be hosed off, but, examine inside the pleats of the cartridge. Dirt and oil have a way of accumulating between these pleats. Never acid wash a cartridge. Acid alone can cause organic material to harden in the web of the fabric, effectively making it impervious to water. Soak the cartridge in a garbage can of water with trisodium phosphate (1 cup per 5 gallons) and muriatic acid (1 cup per 5 gallons) for an hour. Remove the cartridge and scrub it clean in fresh water. Don't use soap. 3) Reassemble the filter and resume normal circulation.

Replace cartridges when they won't come clean, when the webbing of the fabric appears shiny and closed, or when the fabric has begun to deteriorate or tear.

Backwash Valves

Piston backwash valves: The valve has piston discs equipped with O-rings. As these wear out, water or dirt bypasses the intended direction. Similarly, the O-rings on the shaft, just under the handle, wear out from regular repeated use. Tear down the valve in the following manner:

1) Turn off the pump. Remove the screws on top of the valve cap. Pull the handle up as if you were going to backwash, but keep pulling straight up to remove the entire piston assembly. Replace the O-rings on each disc. They pull off like rubber bands and the new ones go on the same way. Apply silicone lube to theO-rings. 2) Remove the handle from the piston stem. It is held in place by setscrews or allen-head screws. This also allows you to slide the cap off the stem. Inside the cap, you will find two small O-rings. Pull these out with the tip of a screwdriver and replace them. Apply silicone lube. 3) Clean the stem and disc assembly and flush out the inside of the valve body. Grit or sand can create leaks or cause your new O-rings to wear out sooner than necessary. Reassemble the unit the same way you took it apart.

Rotary or Multiport Backwash Valves: Rotary and multiport valves are similar in construction. A rotary valve is normally mounted under a vertical grid DE filter. As with piston-type units, these leak either externally or within the chambers of the unit itself. If water appears under the filter, use a flashlight to inspect underneath as carefully as possible. If you can see or feel a leak where the plumbing enters the valve openings, you can repair that without disassembling the entire filter. If the leak appears to be at the joint of the valve and filter tank, or if the problem is DE and dirt bypassing the normal flow and getting back into the pool, you will need to tear down the filter and valve.

Another typical symptom of an internal leak is drips coming from the backwash outlet even though the valve is turned completely to the normal filtration position. It employs a rotor seal that can compress or wear out. When the body gasket wears out and water bypasses the normal flow, some leakage gets to the backwash side and appears as a leak under the filter. If the backwash outlet is plumbed directly into a waste or sewer drain, this leak might not be visible.

Sometimes the problem is not in the pool or spa itself, but in some hidden area within the system plumbing. Such a hidden problem can also cause the system to lose prime overnight when the pump is off. The leak drains the water from the filter tank, then siphons the water out of the pump. On start-up the next day, the pump has no prime. If the pump runs dry for several hours, overheats, loosens or melts the plumbing fittings, you will attribute the loss of prime to the damaged plumbing. You repair the plumbing and the same problem occurs the next day. Have a sight glass on the backwash outflow line so you can see any leaks and/or have a shutoff gate valve on that line that stays closed when the valve is in the normal filtration position.

To tear down this type of valve, use the following procedure:

1) Cut the plumbing to isolate the filter and take the unit apart. 2) Reach inside the bottom of the filter and remove the bolts that hold the compression ring with a nut driver. This ring holds the valve in place as well, so the valve will now fall away from the filter tank. 3) You now have the valve body with the rotor inside. Remove the handle on the underside of the valve by removing the bolt assembly that holds it on the rotor shaft and slide it off the shaft. Pull the rotor out of the body. Bronze rotors are very hard to remove and you might have to take the valve to a pump rebuilding shop. 4) Pull the old rotor seal gasket from the rotor with needle-nose pliers. Clean the rotor and inside the valve body. Put a new gasket on the rotor, being careful not to over-stretch the new gasket. 5) Lube the gasket with silicone lube and replace it in the valve body. On bronze rotors, each port has an O-ring instead of one body gasket seal as you will find on the plastic versions. Before reassembling the filter, replace the O-ring that sits between the tank and valve and the O-ring that seals the shaft as it passes through the valve body to the handle. Also replace the O-ring on the neck of the rotor. The grid manifold sits on this neck and the O-ring seals that joint, so to prevent dirt from bypassing the correct direction of flow, and lube all O-rings with silicone lube. 6) Reassemble the valve and tank the way you took it apart. Be sure the tank itself is clean and that the opening in the bottom shows no rust or cracks. If it does, you should clean it thoroughly and have the cracks welded. Replumb and restart the filter as described previously.

Lids and Gauge Assemblies

Lids on filters leak in two places. The O-ring that seals them to the tank and/or the pressure gauge air relief valve assembly. The lid O-ring can sometimes be removed, cleaned, turned over, and reused. Try the cleanup/turnover method and if you still have leaks, then replace it.

Some filters will crack on the rim of either the lid or the tank where the O-ring is seated. Obviously, the problem in this case is not a bad O-ring, but a bad lid or tank. Inspect these stress areas carefully for hairline cracks that might be the source of the leak.

Air relief valves sometimes leak if they become dirty or they simply wear out. Some are fitted with an external spring that applies tension to create the seal. When the spring goes, so does the watertight seal. Others have a small O-ring on the tip of the part that actually screws in to create the seal. Unscrew this type of valve all the way. The screw part will come out to reveal the O-ring on the tip that makes the seal, and you can easily replace that. Air relief valves themselves simply screw out of the T assembly. Apply Teflon tape or pipe dope to the new one and screw it back in place.

The pressure gauge also threads into the T assembly. If you have a leak there, unscrew the gauge, apply Teflon tape or pipe dope to the threads and screw it back into place. If the gauge doesn't register or seems to register low, take it out and clean out the hole in the bottom of the gauge. Dirt or DE can clog this small hole, preventing water from getting into the gauge.

Remember, when removing an air relief valve or pressure gauge, you must secure the T with pliers or a wrench while removing the component. The T assembly can easily snap off the filter lid or come loose if you fail to hold it securely when removing or replacing a valve or gauge. The T assembly itself can come loose and create a leak where the close nipple passes through the hole in the lid. In this case you must remove the lid and tighten the nut from the underside of the lid. Some makes of filters have a nipple welded to the lid, so you won't have this problem unless you crack the weld.

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The basics of a pump/motor(Order Pool and Spa Parts)

Glossary of Pump and Motor Terminology

Here is some terminology used in context with motors and pumps that you should be familiar with:

Air gap- The air space between two magnetically related or electrically related parts. (i.e the space between poles of a magnet or the poles of an electric motor)
Alternating current- An electrical current that alternates, flowing first with a positive polarity, followed by a negative polarity.
Capacitor- An electrical device consisting of two or more conducting plates separated from one another by insulating material and used for storing an electrical charge.
Dielectric-The insulating material that separates and insulates the conducting plates in a capacitor.
Dielectric breakdown- The failure of an insulating material to separate electrical charges. Breakdown occurs when the insulating material changes and conducts the electrical charge between plates.
Frequency- In electricity, the number of times alternated current changes direction during one second. Frequency is measured in hertz.
Hertz- A unit of measurement of frequency. Hertz indicates "cycles per second" of alternating current.
Horsepower- The conventional unit of measure foi- power, this indicates the result of force multiplied by distance multiplied by time.
Locked-rotor test- A test of an electric motor in which the shaft is prevented from turning while power is applied.
NEMA- The National Electrical Manufacturers Association.
No-load test- Operating a motor at full speed with no load to determine rotational power losses.
Rotor- The rotating part of an electric rotating machine. In a motor it is connected to and turns the drive shaft. In an alternator or generator it is turned to produce electricity by cutting magnetic lines of force.
Service factor- A measure of the reserve margin built into a motor. Motors rated more than 1.0 SF have more than normal margin and are used where unusual conditions such as occasional high or low voltage, momentary overloads and so forth are likely to occur.
Single phase- Having only one alternating current or voltage in a circuit.
Stator- The stationary part of a motor that contains the laminated steel core with the winding; this is where the rotor revolves.
Torque- A force that produces a rotating or twisting action.
Triac- An electronic switch used in applications such as power switches, light dimmers and motor controls.
Voltage- Electrical pressure; the force that causes current in an electrical conductor.
Watt- A unit of electrical power representing the power developed in a circuit by a current of one ampere when the voltage drop is one volt.
Wattmeter- An instrument for measuring electrical power.

Motor Types

Capacitor-start motor- An alternating current split-phase induction motor that has a capacitor connected in series with an auxiliary winding for starting. The auxiliary circuit disconnects when the motor is up to speed. This motor requires an internal starting switch and governor.
Permanent split capacitor motor- A single-phase electric motor that uses a phase winding in conjunction with the main winding. The phase winding is controlled by a capacitor that stays in the circuit at all times and is rated for continuous running. The capacitor improves starting and running power factors. This motor does not require either an internal starting switch or a governor.
Split-phase motor- A single-phase induction motor that has an auxiliary winding connected in parallel with the main winding. The auxiliary winding's magnetic position is not the same as the main winding, so it can produce the required rotating magnetic field needed for starting. This motor requires an internal starting switch and a governor.
Three-phase electric motor- A motor that operates from a three-phase power source. In three-phase power, three voltages are produced that are 120 electrical degrees apart in time. This motor has no internal starting switch.
Two-capacitor motor- An induction motor that uses one capacitor for starting and one for running. The starting capacitor is in parallel with the running capacitor as the motor is starting; at 75 percent of speed, the starting capacitor is cut out of the circuit. This type of motor is sometimes called capacitor start/capacitor run and requires an internal starting switch and governor.

Overview

Pool and spa pumps are classified as centrifugal pumps. Meaning, the centrifugal force that is created by spinning the water, will force the water downwards and if there is an opening or a hole, this water will get pushed forward through the hole.

The pump operates the same way. The impeller in the pump spins, shooting water out of it. As the water escapes, a vacuum is created that demands more water to equalize this force. Water is pulled from the pool or spa and sent on its way through the circulation plumbing. The hole size determines the amount of water and how fast it can escape.

Pumps used for pools are self-priming. That is, they expel the air inside upon start-up, creating a vacuum that starts suction. Once water is flowing through the pump, if you close a valve on the outflow side of the pump, restricting all flow, maximum possible pressure is created.

Strainer Pot And Basket

Water flows into a chamber, called the strainer pot or hair and lint trap. This chamber holds a basket that permits water to pass but retains the debris. In some pumps the strainer pot bolts to the volute with a gasket to prevent leaks, while in yet others it is molded together with the volute as one piece. In bathtub spas or booster pumps, there is no strainer pot and basket at all since debris is not a problem.

There is an access provided to clean out the strainer basket, and also have a cover that are usually made of transparent plastic and can easily be attached with a nut and a bolt. The strainer cover has an O-ring between the lip of the strainer pot and itself. This prevents any leakage due to suction. Also the pot has a small threaded plug that screws into the bottom. This plug is designed to allow complete drainage of the pot when winterizing the pump.

Volute

The volute, is the chamber in which the impeller spins, that forces water out of the pump and into the plumbing that takes the water to the filter. The outlet port is usually female threaded for easy plumbing. The movement of the impeller sucks the water from the pool through the strainer pot. The resulting vacuum in the pot is compensated for by water filling the void. The rushing water is contained by the volute which directs it out of the pump. Therefore the pot can be considered a vacuum chamber and the volute a pressure chamber. The impeller by itself cannot create a strong vacuum by itself to make the water flow begin. The area immediately around the impeller must be limited to eliminate air and help start the water flow. A diffuser and/or closed-face impeller help this process, but in many pump designs, the volute serves this purpose.

Impeller

The impeller is a ribbed disk that spins inside the volute. The disk is called a shroud and the curved ribs are called vanes. Water entering the center of the impeller, is forced to the outside edge of the disk by the vanes. As the water moves to the edge, there is a resulting drop in pressure at the center, creating a vacuum that is the suction of the pump.

There are two types of impellers, closed-face and semi-open-face. In a closed-face impeller, the vanes of the impeller are covered in both front and back. Water flows into the hole in the center and is forced out at the end of each vane along the edge of the impeller. This type of impeller is very efficient in moving water and a diffuser is added to the design to slow the speed of the water before it leaves the volute. This design does not take into considerationthe debris that might escape the skimmer and strainer basket and into the impellers. This led to the new design, the semi-open-face design allowing small debris to pass by actually pulverizing it. Diatomaceous earth is the chief cause of clogging in the impellers.

Impellers are rated by horsepower to match the motor horsepower that is used. This, in turn, determines the horsepower rating of the pump or pump and motor you have. Usually the motor is of higher horse power than the impeller.

Seal Plate and Adapter Bracket

The volute is divided into two sections, the rounded volute and the seal plate. This allows an access to the impeller. The seal plate is joined to the volute with a clamp or with bolts. An O-ring between them makes this joint watertight. The motor is bolted directly onto this type of seal plate. In other designs, the seal plate is molded together with an adapter bracket that supports the motor and bolts to the volute, with a paper or rubber gasket between them to create a watertight joint.

In both cases, the shaft of the motor passes through a hole in the center of the seal plate and the impeller is attached, threaded onto the shaft. The bracket allows access to the shaft extender for adjusting the clearance between the impeller and volute. The pump design of closed face needs no such adjustment, so the shaft need not be exposed.

Shaft and Shaft Extender

The shaft of the motor is the part that turns the impeller, creating water flow. The impeller needs to be adjusted in relation to the volute, so a shaft extender has been created. The extender slides over the motor shaft and is secured by three allen-head setscrews. The male threaded end of the shaft extender then fits through the seal plate and the impeller is screwed into place.

The extender is round with a flat area on two sides to prevent the extender from spinning when performing maintenance. The shaft should never be in contact with electric current, so most motor shafts today are designed with a special internal sleeve to insulate the electricity in the motor from the water in the pump.

Seal

The seal allows the shaft to turn freely while keeping the water from leaking out of the pump. If the shaft passed through the large hole of the seal plate without some kind of sealing, the pump would leak water.

The seal is in two parts. One half of the seal is composed of a rubber gasket or O-ring. This is fitted around a ceramic ring and fits into a groove in the back of the impeller. The other half of the seal is made of a metal bushing and a spring. This fits into a groove in the seal plate. Since the spring exerts pressure on both the sides it makes the whole seal water tight there by preventing the water from leaking out of the pump.

As the shaft turns, these two halves spin against each other but do not burn up because their materials are heat-resistant and the entire seal is cooled by the water around it. Therefore, if the pump is allowed to run dry, the seal is the first component to overheat and fail. Pumps are not designed to run without water for more than a few minutes while priming.

Motor

Motors are rated by horsepower. The most common ratings for pool and spa motors range from 0.5 to 2.0 horsepower. Some motors are designed to operate at two speeds. Each speed is dependent upon the need for circulation and heating or for jet action in a spa. A starting switch is mounted on one end with a small removable panel for maintenance access.

A thermal overload protector, which is a heat sensitive switch that is like a circuit breaker, is mounted on the panel. If the internal temperature gets too hot, it shuts off the flow of electricity to the motor to prevent greater damage. As this protector cools, it automatically restarts the motor. But, if the unit overheats again, it will continue to cycle on and off until the problem is solved or the protector burns out.

The capacitor of the motor is located on top of the motor housing in a separate box or housing. The capacitor has the ability to store an electrical charge, and when discharged it gives the motor enough of a jolt to start. This way the capacitor can impart enough energy to start the motor and then run on a lower amount of electricity. Without the capacitor, the motor would need to be served by very heavy wiring and high-amp circuit breakers to carry the starting amps.

Motor Types

The three main types of motors that you find in pool and spa are:

Split-phase

When the start up power requirements are minimal, the motor is usually one-quarter horse power or less. This does not require any capacitor either.

Capacitor start, induction run (CSI)

This is the most commonly used motor in the pool business. This motor uses a capacitor and starting windings to start up, then these are shut down and a running winding takes over.

The capacitor and start-up windings allow faster, stronger torque to overcome the initial resistance of the impeller against standing water. When the water is moving and less power is needed to keep it moving, the system shuts off and the lighter running winding takes over.

Capacitor start, capacitor run (CSR)

A (CSR) motor is more efficient than a (CSI) motor, but costs more because of the added parts. These motors are also called switch-less, because on some designs the run capacitor makes a start switch unnecessary. These are the most energy efficient motors when they have heavier wire in the windings to lower the electricity wasted from heat loss. A good way to compare energy efficiency between two motors is to compare the gallons pumped to kilowatts used. The higher the resulting number, the more efficient is the pump and motor. Kilowattage is determined by multiplying amps by voltage.

Voltage

Motors are most commonly designed to work on 110 or 220 volts. Higher horsepower motors might run on three-phase current. So it is best to get the work done by a certified electrician.

Housing Design

A variety of motors are designed for pool pumps. The motor must be compatible to the pump design. The motor face could be either a C-frame or square-flange type. So, check for the correct fit and compatibility with the pump.

Ratings

The service factor of a motor is a multiplier number. When this number is multiplied with the horsepower rating of the motor, you get the real horsepower at which the motor is designed to operate on a continuous basis. As an example, a motor rated at 1 hp with a service factor of 1.5 can actually safely run a 1.5-hp pump (1.0 x 1.5 = 1.5 hp).

Electrical Specifications

Usualy, a diagram showing how to wire the starting switch plate for 110 or 220 volt supply can be found on the outside of the motor. If not, remove the small access door in the end bell and it should be printed on a sticker in there. These stickers frequently come off as the motor gets older, so if no diagram is available, refer to the manufacturer's guidebook available at your supply house.

The nameplate also tells you of the maximum load or amperage. It might say "10.0/5.0." This means the start-up draw is 10.0 amps, and the normal running draw is 5.0 amps. The nameplate also lists the electrical phasing and cycle frequency in hertz.

Duty rating

Pool and spa motors are designed for continuous duty, meaning they can run 24 hours a day for their entire service life without stopping. The nameplate shows this by the rating "Continuous Duty." The horsepower, service factor, rpm, and frame style of the housing are listed. If the motor has a thermal overload protector, the nameplate will indicate it.

Horsepower And Hydraulics Equals Sizing

To find the correct horsepower of the motor or the pump, that is required for the job, it is best to consider the needs of the pool and spa, hydraulics involved and the horsepower of the equipment. This gives you the right size of the unit that needs to be installed.

Hydraulics

The study of water flow and the factors affecting that flow is Hydraulics. It is important to understand because its principles affect plumbing and equipment sizing choices for there are so many factors involved.

Terms commonly used

Head and Flow rate- Head is the resistance of water flow through plumbing and equipment expressed in feet. The lower, the better. Flow rate is the volume of water moved in a given period of time.

As the length of the plumbing pipe increases, the resistance will bring down the flow rate.The additional resistance (head) of that added pipe means that the pump cannot push the water as fast. This loss of flow, as head increases, is called head loss. What is actually lost is flow. The term actually means flow loss caused by head increase. If you continue to increase the head (resistance) by adding more vertical pipe, the flow rate will continue to decrease until at last, no water comes out at all.

Pumps are designated low, medium, high, or ultra-high head. The higher the head designation, the less strain is placed on the pump and motor components: Low head-suck well; push poorly; Medium head-suck well; push well; High head-suck poorly; push well (most common in pools and spas); Ultra-high head-suck poorly; push well (pool sweeps).

One factor affecting which type a particular pump will be is its impeller. Thin vents on the face (closed or semi-open) result in greater push but poor suck; in other words, poor self-priming capabilities but good circulating flows.

Suction Head is the head created by adding resistance to the outflow side of the pump. By restricting the intake or requiring the pump to lift water from a source below it, you also create head. Each foot on the suction side equals a similar foot on the discharge side, called discharge head. The only thing to remember here is that head (resistance) is created on both sides and must be calculated when determining pump size.

Dynamic and Static Head- The static head or the head created by the weight of standing water is only a small portion of the total head in the system. The rest is created by the friction of water flowing through the entire system, called dynamic (moving) head. The diameter of the pipe and the speed of the water determines how much resistance is created by friction. Further friction is created when water must go through or around other obstacles, such as through the filter, heater, solar panels, and plumbing fittings for every plumbing elbow or bend creates head too.

Cavitation refers to the vacuum created when the outflow capacity of a pump exceeds the suction intake. This happens, when a pump is oversized for the suction line or when the distance from the body of water is too far. The result is bubbling and vibration.

Total Dynamic Head (TDH) is the total of plumbing and equipment head for the entire system. Vacuum head (suction) plus pressure head (discharge) equals total dynamic head.

Shut-off head- The amount of head at which the pump can no longer circulate water.

Calculations: Here are a few general numbers to use in your calculations.

To make it easier to calculate head in your plumbing system, it is measured for every 100 feet of pipe or the equivalent. Plumbing connections, fittings, and valves have different amounts of resistance than straight pipe. So, these must first be converted to the equivalent length of straight pipe. Unions and straight connectors act like additional lengths of straight pipe. So, no special calculations are needed. Going around corners is what creates head. Here are the values for the most common PVC fittings you will use:

1) 1/2-inch x 90-degree elbow = 7.5 feet of straight 1/2-inch pipe
2) 2-inch x 90-degree elbow = 8.6 feet of straight 2-inch pipe
3) 1/2-inch x 45-degree elbow = 2.2 feet of straight 1/2-inch pipe
4) 2-inch x 45-degree elbow = 2.8 feet of straight 2-inch pipe

Filters- The manufacturer will tell you in the literature that accompanies the product how many feet of head the unit creates. You can also measure the amount by placing a pressure gauge on the pipe leading into the filter and one on the pipe going out. The difference, measured in pounds per square inch (psi), tells you the feet of head.

Manufacturers recommend cleaning a filter when the operating pressure builds up to more than 10 psi over clean operating pressure. Heaters create 8 to 15 feet of head. Like filters, the manufacturer will tell you in the literature that comes with the unit what the head loss is for the unit at a given flow rate. Also like filters, as scale builds up in the heat exchanger, more friction is created and therefore more head.

Poolside Hardware- Main drain covers, skimmers, and return outlets all add head. To know exactly how much, you must refer to each manufacturer's specifications. A general rule of thumb is to add 5 feet of head to allow for the total of such components in your system.

Pumps- also create head, but the manufacturer's charts allow for this, so your calculations need not consider it. When you look at the TDH for the system on the pump curve, the pump head loss is already figured in the performance ability.

Turnover Rate- The turnover rate of a body of water is how long it takes to run all the water through the system. It is desirable for the water to completely circulate through the filter one to two times per day. Various components offer more or less resistance at different speeds expressed in gallons per minute. To calculate the TDH of a system, you must know that speed. To decide what speed is needed you must establish a turnover rate.

Let's say you've calculated the volume of water in the pool as 24,000 gallons.

24,000 gal / 6 hrs = 4000 gallons per hour 4000 gph / 60 min = 66.6 gpm

Therefore, you need a pump capable of delivering a flow rate of 66.6 gpm under the TDH of the system.

Methods of calculating TDH: Here are the three methods for calculating TDH.

Method 1: Exact values:

If you have the exact specifications of the pool, measure all the pipe from the pool, through the equipment, and back to the pool. Add the equivalent feet of pipe for all the fittings. Add the feet of head at the desired flow rate for the filter, heater, and any other components to arrive at the TDH for the system.

Method 2: Estimated values:

1) Suction-side head- Assume 2 feet of head for each 10 feet the equipment is away from the pool.
2) Discharge-side head- Estimate how many feet of pipe are in the system back to the pool. Double that estimate to allow for fittings.
3) Using the tables, calculate the feet of head for the total amount of pipe on the discharge side.
4) Equipment head. Consult manufacturer's tables and charts for the desired flow rate
5) Add these three parts together to get the TDH.

Method 3: Measured values:

An easier and more accurate way to estimate all of this, if the existing pump is operating, is to measure the vacuum on the suction side of the pump and the pressure on the discharge side. Plumb a vacuum gauge on the pipe entering the pump. It measures inches of mercury. Every 1 inch of mercury equals 1.13 feet of head. Plumb a pressure gauge on the pipe coming out of the pump. It measures pounds per square inch (psi). Every 1 psi of pressure equals 2.31 feet of head.

Multiply the gauges out accordingly and the sum of the two gives you the TDH of the system. This might sound like work, plumbing in two separate gauges, but it really isn't, and it gives you the most accurate TDH calculation because it takes into account the dirty filter, the limed-up heater, all the unseen plumbing. It also allows you to keep an eye on the TDH in the system at any time and more easily troubleshoot poor performance in the equipment.

Sizing

The running water not only encounters friction created by pipes and equipment, but the water itself is creating friction. This friction will strip copper from pipes and heater components causing all kinds of havoc. Because of this, most building codes set maximum flow rates of 8 feet per second through copper pipe and 10 feet per second through PVC. Since heaters all use copper heat exchangers, use 8 feet per second even if the plumbing is PVC. What is feet per second in terms of gallons per minute?

1) 50 gpm in 1 1/2-inch pipe = 7.9 feet per second

2) 50 gpm in 2-inch pipe =